Skin Care Ingredients – Immune Serum & Organic Ingredients

The BIOCUTIS® Immune Serum

A biological serum secreted by the cells of the brown garden snail of the species Helix Aspersa Müller. Collected in Chile using proprietary biotechnology.

Live snails produce the serum copiously when the proper triggers are in place. It is fluid and as we collect it we homogenize and stabilize the complex compound to avoid hydrolysis of its enzymes.

The biological active immune serum is embedded in liposomes. Those are microscopic “fat” vessels that are food for cells and are thus readily taken in by them carrying the ingredient within the nucleous of cells.

Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates

The complex biological serum triggers the proliferation of fibroblasts, the cells that give rise to connective tissues and all the structures present in the skin matrix, including the water holding carbohydrate molecules.

The compound is a complex of biological molecular structures: proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans, enzymes, copper peptides, antimocrobial peptides and oligoelements (Copper, Zinc, Calcium, Iron some of which act as coenzymes).

Below we look first at the biological ingredient and then at the other ingredients we use. Some of the additional ingredients are used mainly to transform a viscose fluid that regulates the orderly regeneration of damaged skin cells and protects the skin, into a pleasant cream-gel or balm with enhanced moisturizing properties. Others are added to the base in BIOSKINCARE to complement the activity of the serum and act in synergy with it for the relief of symptoms such as itching (BIOSKINRELIEF), and reducing vascular proliferation unde scars (BIOSKINREPAIR), or taking away melanin (BIOSKINREJUVENATION), or contributing to the deep moisturizing and relief of skin affeted byeczemma or deramatitis (BIOSKINBALM). We also offer products for acne with added ingredients that make them strongly antimicrobial or re-balance the lipids in the skin. And a skin serum where the immune serum of the snails is combined with a stable form of Vitamic C which makes it a poerful skin revitalizer as Vitamic C enhances the regenerative powers of the snail serum.

The Main Biological Ingredient

The main ingredient in all our products is the secretions copiously produced by land snails of the species Helix Aspersa Müller whenever they are under stress. Stress makes them copiously secrete a viscous fluid to protect, moisturize, repair and renew its skin. The same is also produced by the snail for many other biological functions, albeit with a different proportion in the molecular components. The complex molecules have been thoroughly studied and you can read all about them by following the links above under the title Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates.

BIOCUTIS skin care products have been formulated by transforming a liquid with cell-communicating ingredients and biological activators of skin renewal into creams, gels, and balms that also moisturize, replenishe and stabilize the lipid ingredients within the intercellular skin matrix by using all natural emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants and nourishing extracts derived from Olive Oil (or, hydrating Hyaluronic acid, and humectant Glycerin or in some products natural cold press extracted Rosehip oil.

The olive oil derivatives are: emulsifier Peg-4 Olivate, surfactant Sorbitan Olivate, and moisturizing Squalene.

Squalene is not only a natural moisturizer but is also a natural component of the skin and is considered a good emollient that has antioxidant and immune-stimulating properties. It helps dry skin look and feel better.

Glycerin – Humectant

BIOSKINCARE contains glycerin which has the ability to draw water right from the air bringing it closer to your skin and promotes the retention of water. It helps improve the skin’s defenses by filling in the intercellular matrix and attracts just the right amount of water to maintain the skin’s homeostasis whilst helping the other skin lipids perform better. Glycerin is a by-product of the saponification process of vegetable fatty acids.

Comment: a wide range of ingredients help skin retain water (moisture). Glycerin is one of the more typical and effective water-binding agents used in cosmetics. Some water-binding agents can mimic the skin’s actual structure and can be of benefit in a formulation; these include ceramide, lecithin, glycerin, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides, sodium PCA, collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, glycogen, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, and glycosaminoglycans. No single one of these is preferred over the other because even though they are all effective, none of them can permanently change the actual structure of skin. What does have a more permanent effect is restoring the capacity of fibroblasts to produce glycosaminoglycans from within, as is the consequence of applying BIOSKINCARE to your skin for a period of at least 30 days.

Hyaluronic Acid – The Fountain of Youth

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan, and as pure as we use it, is present in the intercellular matrix of skin where it has a protective, structure stabilizing and shock-absorbing role.

The snail serum also contains Hyaluronic acid and other glycosaminoglycans and thse compunds stimulate the production of fibroblasts which in turn boost the production of glycosaminoglycans.

In the field of cosmetics, since a reduction in the amount of hyaluronic acid present in the skin occurs during aging, with resulting dehydration of the skin, appearance of wrinkles and loss of elasticity and of tonicity of the skin, the action exerted by acetylglucosamine, by glucuronic acid and by the related combination is of considerable importance.

Hyaluronic Acid is naturally found in the joints, the deeper layers of skin, the umbilical cord and in foetal skin.

Medical grade Hyaluronic Acid is currently employed to reduce the incidence of post-operative adhesions, as a viscoelastic agent in intra-ocular surgery, also as a synovial replacement fluid; and is used to facilitate the healing and regeneration of surgical wounds.

The unique properties of Hyaluronic Acid make it the ideal moisturizer. Hyaluronic Acid plays an important role in tissue hydration, lubrication and cellular function, and is able to hold more water than any other natural complex. Its unmatched hydrating properties result in increased smoothness, softening and decreased wrinkles.

Hyaluronic Acid is a major constituent of the extra-cellular matrix that surrounds rapidly dividing cells. It has been shown to be an integral component in the rapid and scar-less wound healing observed in foetal and neonatal organisms. In addition to this, the cellular actions precipitated by Hyaluronic Acid are integral to the seemingly magical biochemistry of fetal development.

It is well documented that foetal tissues contain large amounts of Hyaluronic Acid and that decreasing Hyaluronic Acid content correlates with aging and wrinkling. Therefore any practical attempts to prolong and recapture youth by revitalizing damaged tissue should include this molecule.

Hyaluronic Acid is also excellent for the reduction of dryness, itching and burning of the skin. It also offers a perfect environment for the growth of new cells and healing following skin peeling.

Final Products

The result is products that contains ingredients that boost the secretion of antimicrobial peptides on the skin, protect, moisturize, repair and renew the skin plus ingredients that mimic the intercellular structure of skin and are essential for helping skin function normally.

The intercellular ingredients that exist naturally in the skin work to hold the skin cells together. A dry environment, sun damage, irritation, inflammation, and age can all greatly reduce the presence of these complex molecules in our skin.

Boosting the production of intercellular molecules helps keep the layers of skin whole, resilient, and in good physical condition by providing the materials the skin needs to defend itself against pollution, hazards arising in the environment and events that trigger an inflammatory response from within the body.

The Beauty & Wisdom of a Biological Skin Care Solution

Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates is a skin “adaptogen” secreted from within the cells of snails of the species Helix Aspersa Müller to shield its fragile exposed skin from the sun’s rays, and to keep its skin moist and hydrated.

This restorative fluid not only protects the snail’s skin from harm, it actually helps the snail regenerate its own shell if it is ever crushed or broken, and even more.

It also repairs and restores the functional capacity of its tentacles, eyes and mouth if bitten by birds.

The secretion also has antimicrobial peptides that help protect the snail from bacteria. As a result, snails never suffer from skin infections – can you imagine?

The natural immune serum restores healthy skin, safely and naturally!

Due to the remarkable similarities in the structure of human and snail skin, snail serum is 100% compatible with human skin. That means no allergic reactions, no burning, no redness – BIOCUTIS skin products are completely safe to use, even on a newborn baby. This compatibility also means that the benefits the snail receives from its own serum can now be experienced by YOU.

The collection process. We use a method that is completely harmless for the snails, while it allows us to collect it PURE as it is copiously produced by the snails, and undiluted in water to avoid the degrading of its enzymes and other molecules by hydrolysis.

  • Hydrolysis: A chemical reaction in which water reacts with a compound to produce other compounds; involves the splitting of a bond and the addition of the hydrogen cation and the hydroxide anion from the water. It results in the formation of one or more new compounds that do not have the same properties of the original complex.

The snail secretions in BIOCUTIS® PRODUCTS are NOT degraded, neither by interaction with chemicals nor by hydrolysis.

The biological compound is embedded in liposomes. Those are microscopic fluid-filled pouches whose walls are made of layers of phospholipids identical to the phospholipids that make up cell membranes. Liposomes are commonly used to deliver certain vaccines, enzymes, or drugs (e.g., insulin and some cancer drugs) to the body. Liposomes attach to cellular membranes and fuse with them, releasing their content into the cells. Sometimes they are taken up by the cell, and the phospholipids are incorporated into the cell membrane while the ingredient (glycoprotein enzyme) trapped inside is released.

Human skin secretes various lipophilic complexs which play a substantial role in the protection of the skin. Chemically seen, these complexs belong to the group of lipids, though they display differing structures: glycerides and free acids, cholesterol and its derivatives, esters with fatty acids and long chained alcohols, polar lipids, saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbons. All in all a complicated mixture of complex processes.

This little creature’s beauty and genius and the new science of glycobiology have both shed light on the complexity of the skin, and how macromolecules –that can not yet be replicated in a laboratory– and the sophistication of our own immune system are capable of creating either havoc in our skin when inflammation gets out of control, or restoring our skin’s health.

Preservatives in BIOCUTIS® products

Preservatives in general and the controversial chemical parabens in particular have had a bad press so we had to address this issue carefully for it is not trivial for a natural skin care product that has to be safe, and not only when it is manufactured and on the shelves but also while it is being used and may be exposed to contaminated fingers.

Among the many classes of ingredients used in the formulation of household and personal products, few have undergone more scrutiny than preservatives. Whether the assault comes from ill-advised legislators, self-serving “natural product” marketers or chemophobic consumers, preservative suppliers have had to defend their product category with vigor and develop new systems when the market demands it.

Suprapein™: an all-natural preservative. In our 100% pure natural skin care product BIOSKINCARE, we use Suprapein™, the brand name of a synergistic combination of botanical extracts that yields a natural preservative with a broad-spectrum of antimicrobial activity. Suprapein™ is made with the following botanical extracts: Origanum Vulgare (Oregano) Leaf Extract (and) Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Extract (and) Cinnamomum Zeylanicum (Cinnamon) Bark Extract (and) Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (and) Lavandula Augustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract (and) Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract (and) Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract (and) Hydrastis Canadensis (Golden Seal) Root Extract (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract.

We use a different preservative in BIOSKINREJUVENATION, BIO STRETCH MARK CREAM, BIOSKINEXFOL Home Microdermabrasion Cream and in BIOSKINTREATMENT for acne, rosacea and scars,. We use a preservative that is compatible with the added plant derived and and organic botanical ingredients: Phenoxyethanol (0.35%) combined with Ethylhexylglycerin (0.5%) a wetting and penetration enhancer on microbe’s membranes.

Phenoxyethanol is an organic chemical compound. This food grade preservative prevents bacterial and microbial contamination, it is cleansing, antiseptic. It is a bactericide that works in conjunction with Ethylhexylglycerin (a wetting agent). It is free of parabens and safely and effectively preserves cosmetics. It is not PH dependent, not a formaldehyde releaser.

Phenoxyethanol has been tested on the skin and eyes and it is non irritating and non sensitizing at levels of 2.2% or lower (we use much less than that). The Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel has deemed phenoxyethanol as a safe cosmetic ingredient as currently used.

Phenoxyethanol is created by treating phenol with ethylene oxide in an alkaline medium. When these ingredients react they create a broad spectrum, safe and effective preservative. Individually a chemical might kill you, but together they create a beneficial product. For instance, lye alone is extremely dangerous, but after it reacts with oil and water to create Castile soap it is harmless and useful. Other companies claim that phenoxyethanol is derived from rose oil, sage oil, minerals, plant derivatives and even coconut. But honestly, phenoxyethanol is not even remotely related to these ingredients. It is, however, very safe. It does not react with other ingredients, air or light. It is very stable. It is even gentle enough to use on or around mucus membranes. You may have seen phenoxyethanol used in cosmetics in conjunction with other preservatives, such as parabens. This is because phenoxyethanol is not a broad spectrum preservative by itself. Through extensive research and testing it has been found it is effective when combined with another commonly used and completely safe cosmetic ingredient: Ethylhexylglycerin.

Ethylhexylglycerin is a glyceryl ether that is widely used to boost preservative efficacy, while adding humectancy and a pleasant skin-feel to formulations. It is used for better wetting action on the microbes and so kills them more effectively. It is a penetration enhancer. Because it affects the interfacial tension at the cell membrane of micro-organisms it greatly enhances the activity of phenoxyethanol.

Challenge test results for this combination show that it may be used at equivalent concentrations to the traditional phenoxyethanol/paraben blend commonly found in cosmetic products.

Ingredients in BIOSKINCARE

  • Distilled Water (solvent)
  • Peg-4 Olivate (emulsifier derived from Olive Oil)
  • Sorbitan Olivate from Olive Oil (moisturizer)
  • Squalane from Olive Oil (natural moisturizer and antioxidant)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (in solution – moisturizer)
  • Biocutis® Serum: Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates
  • Glycerin (humectant)
  • Suprapein™, a synergistic combination of botanical extracts that yields a natural preservative with a broad-spectrum of antimicrobial activity.

Ingredients in BIO SKIN REJUVENATION

  • Purified Water (solvent)
  • Peg-4 Olivate (emulsifier derived from Olive Oil)
  • Sorbitan Olivate from Olive Oil (moisturizer)
  • Biocutis® Serum: Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates
  • Squalene
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Glycerin
  • Rumex Occidentalis Extract
  • Biomimetic Nonapeptide-1
  • Phenoxyethanol (Preservant)
  • Ethylhexylglycerine (Preservant Enhancer)

Ingredients in BIOSKINREPAIR

  • Distilled Water (solvent)
  • Peg-4 Olivate (emulsifier derived from Olive Oil)
  • Sorbitan Olivate from Olive Oil (moisturizer)
  • Squalane from Olive Oil (natural moisturizer and antioxidant)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (1% solution – moisturizer)
  • BIOCUTIS® Serum: Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates
  • Extract of the The Elder Tree, Sambucus Nigra L. (Anti-inflammatory & Vascular Regulator)
  • Petasites Japonicus (Butterbur) Root Extract (Anti-irritant)
  • Glycerin (humectant)
  • Phenoxyethanol (preservant)
  • Ethylhexylglycerin (surfactant and preservant enhancer).

Active Ingredients in BIOSKINTREATMENT

  • The biological serum: Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates, is an immune system support serum collected from a living creature with skin similar to human skin but who never suffers from skin infections. It is also an effective anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, trigger of skin repair and skin regeneration, and enzyme dissolver of blocked pores.
  • Willow bark extract: a keratolytic and antimicrobial botanical;
  • Hyaluronic Acid a glycosaminoglycan (also present in the snail serum): it deeply moisturizes the skin and restores the capacity of the skin to hold in water.

Ingredients in BIOSKINBALM

  • Distilled Water (solvent)
  • Rose Hip Seed Oil
  • Biocutis® Serum: Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates
  • Peg-4 Olivate (emulsifier derived from Olive Oil)
  • Sorbitan Olivate from Olive Oil (moisturizer)
  • Squalane from Olive Oil (natural moisturizer and antioxidant)
  • Seaweed Extract, a rich supply of oligoelements that are needed for cellular development
  • Hyaluronic Acid (in solution – moisturizer)
  • Chamomile for inflammatory skin conditions
  • Pentavitin™, Saccharide Isomerate, a carbohydrate complex similar to that present in the stratum corneum of the skin that holds water by strongly binding water to keratin;
  • Suprapein™, a synergistic combination of botanical extracts that yields a natural preservative with a broad-spectrum of antimicrobial activity.

Our natural skin care products are manufactured in a state of the art Cosmetic Laboratory in the USA, based on Helix Aspersa Müller’s Immune Serum collected, stabilized, and sterilized in Chile.